Hope Kicks HIV in the Ballons

For one glorious week in the middle of July, nine PCVs and more than twenty Burkinabé counterparts kicked HIV/AIDS in the rear end. The thirty of us were involved in a joint Training of Trainers put on by the Peace Corps and a British NGO called Coaching for Hope. Though PCVs were probably tempted to tell you that the main goal of the TOT was to put participants through soccer Boot Camp, we were actually aiming to increase awareness of HIV/AIDS and sexual health in rural communities using football (soccer to us Yanks) as a sort of universal communication. Check out the pictures from the week!

The workshop days were divided into two parts. In the mornings we focused on improving our football and coaching skills. We did fun warm-ups, ball control exercises and drills. This is where Boot Camp seemed to play a role. It got easier as the week went on though, and by the middle of the training, most of us were hobbling with only a slight limp from muscle fatigue. We also talked about how to structure a football practice, communicate effectively, and coach with limited resources (a condition in which most us have earned our PhDs). Since the leaders of the workshop were Burkinabé that had been trained to UK professional standards, our counterparts (all coaches themselves) greatly appreciated the tips.

After a luxurious lunch and restful repos (That’s right, folks! We got 150 minutes for repos! …and this is the second Blog in a row I’ve talked about afternoon naps. Priorities?), we came back for the HIV/AIDS portion of the training. Coaching for Hope has developed a series of eight HIV/AIDS workshops, each aimed at a different aspect of prevention: myths and realities; transmission; protection, etc. Each of the workshops is divided into a discussion session done under the trees or in a classroom, and an on-the-field session. The field work put to direct use the knowledge gained during the discussion times with fun football activities. For example, on the day we learned about transmission, we did a neat passing activity where bad passes represented a risky sexual encounter; too many bad passes lost the game for your team, so control that ball! The coaches are now responsible for going back to their youth teams and delivering these eight workshops; PCVs are responsible for helping CFH with follow through and making sure coaches get questions answered if problems arise.

All in all, everyone agreed that the week was a huge success. The Burkinabé coaches are eager to put on the workshops with their teams around the country, and everyone is excited to be able to reach so many youth in one swoop. And by doing something they love.

Rains and Travel

I’m writing today from the northern oasis town of Ouahigouya. This is the city where I spent three months during training two years (already!) ago, and it is where I’ll be much of this summer. This time though, I’ll be on the other end of the information exchange, acting as one of the PCV trainers. The new trainees arrive tonight, and everyone- Burkinabé staff and PCVs- is excited to meet them!

Update from village: Due to my extensive travel plans this summer and the early start to the rainy season, we have decided to postpone building the kitchen at the elementary school in my village. Most of the villagers are farmers, and right now they are busy planting fields of corn, millet, cotton and peanuts, so construction of the kitchen would have been a side project. Rains will start in earnest soon, making construction nearly impossible. Additionally, since I won’t be there to be a part of the process, we’ve decided to postpone building the kitchen until the ‘Rentrée’ in the fall. No worries, though. The money is resting safely and will be available as soon as we are ready for it. We may even benefit from falling prices on construction materials after the rainy season.

Dogon Country

Check out pictures!

Last week I took my first significant trip North, to Dogon Country in Mali. I went with three friends, and with the Canadian we met on the drive up, we had a good smallish group. The Dogon people live along these huge cliffs that jut up from the floor of the Sahel. Thing is, they’ve built their villages along the base, top, and literally into the sides of the cliffs. We had a great time hiking around the cliffs, exploring ancient and modern villages, and napping. Plenty of glorious napping.

Our guide for the hiking expedition was Omar, the guide recommended by every PCV this side of the Mediterranean. We met up with Omar in Koro, Mali where he promptly gave us water to wash up and fed us. Two big pluses in my book. Omar had arranged transport for us to the first village, so we piled into a beat up station wagon, and set out into the bush. The great thing we quickly learned about Omar is that he took care of everything for us: where to stay; where and what and when to eat; routes up and down the cliffs. He even told us when to take pictures. You might think that this would get a little overwhelming and/or annoying. Nope. None of us had done any planning for the trip, so we were perfectly content to let Omar dictate everything. The other great thing about Omar is that he was really good about taking breaks during hiking. We’d hike for about 30 minutes before he had to stop for a smoke break. Each day at lunch we had a huge feast, then a three-hour nap. We never hiked more than 8km in a day. The first day was ridiculously hot, so not doing anything from noon until 3pm was very welcome. The second day we got caught in a dust storm that made us feel like we were hiking on Mars. Then the rain came, making the rest time not completely necessary but still very much appreciated. What will I ever do in America when someone says I only get 30 or 60 minutes for lunch. Aye.

The country itself is absolutely magnificent. Most of the modern villages are either at the top or along the bottom of the cliffs, and people walk up and down all day, going to market, trading goods, cultivating crops, and visiting friends. The ancient villages are all built into the sides of the cliffs. The people built their villages off the floor of the Sahel back in the day when it was covered by a jungle. Wild animals roamed freely, so people climbed up the now nonexistent vines coating the cliff walls, and built their villages in the safety of the cliff side. Insane. The Dogon and Telem people were also strict believers in black magic, and there are fetishes and remnants of fetishes all over the place. Unfortunately they were also a bit sexist, and women- considered unclean- are still not allowed in parts of the villages near fetishes. The neatest aspect of their culture (aside from the fact that they climb up and down cliffs all day) is probably their justice system. They construct really short hangars where elders go to discuss community problems. The ceilings are built so low that they prevent people from standing up and starting a fight.