"With all respect, Sahib, you have little to teach us in strength and toughness. And we do not envy your restless spirit. Perhaps we are happier than you? But we would like our children to go to school. Of all the things you have, learning is the one we most desire for our children."
~Urkien Sherpa to Sir Edmund Hillary,
the first man to summit Mt. Everest

Friday, October 19, 2007

Pencils, Notebooks, Protractors...Rocks, Sticks and Machetes

The school year has gotten off to a pretty good start. Despite Monday’s unexpected holiday, I think all of my classes will be ready for their first test in two weeks as planned. I’m teaching two classes each of sixth and seventh grade math. Both classes are about equivalent to their American counterparts: the sixth graders are learning about lines and angles; and the seventh graders are learning central symmetry. The Burkinabe school system puts algebra and geometry subjects in each grade, so the next unit in each class will be algebra-oriented. The sixth graders are especially fun; they are excited to be in middle school and are receptive to my sometimes foreign teaching methods- I borrowed an idea from a PCV friend and used a tent pole to demonstrate lines, rays, and segments. The seventh graders are a little more set in their ways and, like American seventh graders, have acquired the “cool kid” attitude that must be a universal phenomenon.

Last weekend was host to two big holidays. My Muslim-savvy readers know that Ramadan was last Saturday. (I know embarrassingly little about Islam, so if someone wants to learn me some stuff, that’d be great.) As far as I know, Ramadan marks the end of the daytime fasting period. How do people celebrate? With a feast, of course! Preparations began just after sunset on Friday and lasted literally all night. You know it’s important when every house in village uses their car battery electricity to blast radios all night. Quite the festive atmosphere! My neighbors killed a few chickens and roasted them over a small fire in the yard. Even more so than when alive, dead Burkinabe chickens make their American brethren look like steroid-enhanced gigantic super freaks. Or maybe the American birds are just well-fed. The biggest difference I noticed between Ramadan Saturday and a regular Saturday is that everyone was all dressed up: women in brightly colored pagnes, men wearing full-length traditional outfits…even the kids looked nice. Saturday afternoon my neighbors shared some of their feast with me: rice and couscous with peanut sauce and…chicken. Delicious!

The other holiday last weekend wasn’t so much a traditional holiday as a political celebration. Monday marked the 20th anniversary of Blaise Compaore’s presidency. The occasion warranted the day off from school…which I found out when I arrived to teach my first class at 7am. Thing is, the students were all there too. Why not just have class? I guess I’m not the only one without a school year calendar. The day also gave me the opportunity to talk American politics with several of my neighbors and coworkers. Most of them were shocked to find out that not only do I not like President Bush, I didn’t even vote for him. (Sorry to disappoint you, Grandma.) Their response: “But he’s the President. Why didn’t you vote for him?” They were even more surprised to find out that very few Americans like him or approve of his presidency. “If no one likes him, how is he President?” Good question.

A couple of other notable differences between Burkinabe and American school and life. The students spent their first few physical education classes clearing the fields behind the school. Since the rainy season is over, all the overgrown grass back there was dead and needed to be cleared so they could have a soccer field. Imagine my surprise when I walked out of my math class to see the eighth graders in the fields with their hoes, axes, and machetes. “Don’t forget your machetes for PE class tomorrow, kids.” If I had a dime for every time I heard that in an American middle school…

When I got home from class yesterday morning, there was a gang of 20 or 25 men standing around with sticks and rocks a few houses down. “Uh-oh,” I thought. “Somebody’s in trouble.” My gut instinct told me to run inside, but my curiosity got the better of me. I hesitated for a few seconds and was amply rewarded: in no time the group started hurling their rocks and sticks, and two pigs came squirting out of the crowd. Yup, I had stumbled across a hunting party. Though I knew the likely outcome, I couldn’t rightly let the party get away without seeing more. I ran inside and changed out of my work clothes (’cuz who knew what was going to happen). Jumped on my bike and took off after the crowd. They chased these poor pigs all around town, squealin’ and hollerin’ the whole way. The men were shouting strategy commands, and women and children helped when they could; they didn’t get too close though and ducked into doorways whenever the gang came into their yard. For my part, I stayed a decent distance away- close enough to see the action, but not so close as to get pelted by a stray stick if one of the pigs should take off in my direction. By and by they cornered one of the pigs. I’ll spare you the details, but let’s just say that a few sticks and rocks to the head later and that pig was ready for the fire.

I later got the scoop from one of my friends. As I’d noticed, people pretty much let their animals roam freely about the village. When someone wants to eat their livestock, they hire a group of men to go find it and kill it. Cows are the easiest because they barely move; goats and pigs require a small herd of men. The going rate for such a hunting party? About one dollar. (What would you do for one American dollar?)

Friday, October 5, 2007

...a Little More Action Please

Life has a certain charm when you live in a small African village and have nothing to do. I spent the month of September going on bike rides, reading books, and watching the shadows move on my front porch (I threw myself a party the day the sun moved far enough south to shade my porch the entire afternoon). Though it might sound a little dull, I had actually started getting used to this life. I enjoyed people watching and knowing that the most stressful part of my day was deciding whether to eat rice or couscous for lunch. That said, I was very excited this week when school started.

School technically starts at 7am, and though I had been warned ad nauseam about the school year getting off to a slow start, I showed up Monday morning promptly at 6:30. Right. The director rolled in a little after 8:00. Most of the students who were going to show up had showed up by then, so the vice principal started taking attendance at 8:30. One by one, he called the names of every student in every class. When their name was called, each student walked from the courtyard into their classroom. Then the VP read the next name. This thrilling process took about three hours. Luckily I realized about an hour into the ordeal that my presence was neither necessary nor required. So I left.

After observing the rigor of the first day, I showed up Tuesday mentally prepared to not spend any time in front of students. Much to my surprise, the director asked me if I was ready to go. “Hell yeah!” said I…in French. He took me to my first class and introduced me to the students, a class of about 80 sixth graders. In my opening spiel I mentioned that I had gone to school in California; no one recognized the state until I mentioned that the popular TV show 24 is set there. Then the faces lit up. Terrorist-fighting Jack Bauer is about as popular here as riding donkeys. Since most of the students don’t have text books, I spent the first class going over the program for the year. Yup, I spent half an hour writing out the table of contents from their math book. Very exciting. Then we went over classroom rules and grading. Nothing to crazy.

I actually got to teach on the second day of class. I started right in on the first chapter of sixth grade math. To my surprise and delight, the lesson actually went really well. I think the kids mostly understood my French, and they more or less paid attention. Something tells me that will change. I have two classes each of 6th and 7th grade math. The 7th grade classes are reasonably small; there are about 45 kids in each section. The 6th grade classes are more typical of Burkinabe sizes- each section has about 90 kids. Yup. 90 sixth graders and me. One of the classes meets every Monday and Wednesday from 3-5pm; can’t wait for the hot season. With the four classes I have 20 hours of teaching per week. Add in lesson planning, grading, and French practice, and I think I’m actually going to be doing quite a bit of work, especially this first year. I guess the shadows on my front porch will have to go on without me.